Historical background
Mycenae is different from other archaeological sites in Greece. It does not date from classical antiquity and therefore does not have the classical architecture with temples and colonnades. In Mycenae you step even further back in time, to the Mycenaean civilisation that ran from about 1600 to 1100 BC.
Mycenae plays a prominent role in Greek mythology. Agamemnon, the army commander of the Greeks in the Trojan War, was king of Mycenae. Other kings of Mycenae are also extensively portrayed in mythological stories. In reality, we don’t know that much about ancient Mycenae. The remains of its structures and archaeological finds point to a rich civilisation. But it is guesswork as to its origins and the lives of the real Mycenaeans.
Excavation site
The excavation site of Mycenae is a walled fortress on a hilltop. This acropolis was the residence of the rulers. The Mycenae for ordinary citizens was located around the acropolis.
Cyclopean masonry
The city walls of Mycenae are built of giant stone blocks. So large that the Greeks thought they must have been built by Cyclopes, the one-eyed giants from Homer’s Odyssey. No stone block has the same shape. They have been carefully carved by stonemasons so that the stones slide together like a jigsaw puzzle to form a robust wall.
Lion Gate
Entering the citadel is already the absolute highlight of the Mycenae excavations. The entrance is the Lion Gate, Mycenae’s iconic landmark. The three enormous stone blocks that form the gate in the cyclopean masonry are impressive in themselves. But most extraordinary is the triangular stone above the gate on which two lions stand guard. It is over 3,000 years old, unprecedented for a sculpture of this size.
Grave Circle A
Just behind the Lion Gate is Grave Circle A. Archaeologists have been digging here fanatically, because there were treasures to be found. Ancient weapons, jewellery, silver and gold cups. The biggest treasures were gold death masks, including the Mask of Agamemnon that turned out not to be Agamemnon’s.
At the castle
A path zigzags to the top of the castle. There lie remains of the palace of Mycenae. It is difficult to recognize a palace in the low stone walls that are still standing. I am particularly baffled by the ugly concrete slabs where the palace floors used to be. More pleasing are the unspoiled remains of the houses around the palace and the view of the surroundings.
Practical information
- The Odysseus website of the Greek Ministry of Culture and Sports contains all the practical information for a visit, such as opening hours and rates.
- Wikipedia is a good source for information on the history of Mycenae. In the text above, there are links to various interesting pages on Wikipedia.
- The archaeological excavations are located northeast of the town of Mykines. At the entrance to the site is a large and free parking area.