The unveiling
Tension is carefully built up at the unveiling of Monemvasia. It starts with the appearance of the nearly 200-metre-high massive rock in the sea. You know that Monemvasia is located on it, but the town is hiding. A dam allows you to cross over to the rock island. At the end of the dam are a few houses, but that is not Monemvasia. The road continues along the south side of the peninsula and stops abruptly in front of a massive fortress wall. It runs straight up the slope from the sea, up to the natural barrier of the steep cliff. In the fortress wall is a small gate. It is a dark hole, but via a zigzag move you can get out on the other side. And then all of a sudden you find yourself in front of the maze of narrow streets of Monemvasia.
The lower town
Behind the entrance gate, it is immediately clear what the main street is: follow the series of tourist shops and cafés. It is a cute little street, where modern knick-knacks combine quite well with the neatly restored old facades. Due to the limited space, most of the merchandise is small fry. The dark cafés are not very inviting, but if you look through them, some turn out to have a nice terrace at the back. The shopping street ends at the central square. It is lovely, with a freestanding Venetian-style church tower as an elegant eye-catcher. On one side of the square, you can see the imposing rock formation towering above Monemvasia. On the other side you look out over red-tiled roofs over the sea.
If you walk further into Monemvasia, you will encounter a serene peace. You inevitably lose your bearings in the maze of alleys, steps and gates. But with the sea and the cliff as clear beacons, you can’t really get lost. At the bottom of the city, by the sea, there is a beautiful large square. It is deserted. Too far away from the main street with shops and terraces. From the square it is a small walk along the sea to the rampart at the back of Monemvasia. Behind it, the island ends. There is nothing more than a lighthouse on the tip of the cape.
The upper town
Monemvasia has one more apotheosis in store and that is the upper town. Remnants of buildings are visible on the edge of the cliff that towers above the town. It seems impossible to get there. Yet a barely visible kind of fortified wall winds up against the rock. That is the entrance to the upper town. It turns out to be a tricky path. The climb is okay, but on the descend the centuries-old cobblestones are slippery. Even on a dry and sunny day. But it is absolutely worth it, the views from the path are fabulous.
The upper town of Monemvasia must once have been as big as the lower town. Now all that remains are intriguing overgrown ruins. It was abandoned centuries ago and I understand that, with the uncomfortable access path. Only the Hagia Sophia church is well-preserved and stands in all its glory on the edge of the rocks. The originally Byzantine church from the 12th century had been converted into a mosque with a minaret during Ottoman rule. After independence in 1821, the Greeks swiftly restored it again in Byzantine style.
Across the water
For lunch we return to the mainland. Next to the dam is a small harbour, with inviting terraces along the quay. You can eat or drink something there with a view on the impressive rock island. Monemvasia itself cannot be seen, it lies hidden at the back.
Practical information
Parking is available on the island, along the road leading to the city wall of Monemvasia. If it is crowded or if you are with a large motorhome, then you can park in the large parking area right after crossing the dam. From there it is a one-kilometre walk to the city gate of Monemvasia.
