Mani - unpolished peninsula of the Peloponnese

Route map

Mani is the middle of the three southern offshoots of the Peloponnese. This route across the Mani peninsula can be done in one day, but it is a bit tight. The quiet fishing villages and clear bays invite you to linger longer. Plan an extra day if you want to give in to that temptation.

Foneas beach

Foneas is a tempting small bay, cozily enclosed by rugged rocks. The white pebbly beach is not very comfortable, but the seawater is clear and bright blue. In the middle of the bay is a striking rocky point, the icing on the cake.

The name of the bay is less enticing. Foneas means murderer in Greek. The name is said to be due to a pirate who was stranded in the bay by shipwreck. The pirate stayed in the cave on the beach, raiding and killing passers-by until he finally repaired his ship.

Agios Nikolaos

Agios Nikolaos is just another fishing village, without any special attractions. But what a delightful place it is. Colourful fishing boats bob in the small harbour and cosy terraces line the quay. Yet it is hardly touristy. The village is not much more than a strip of seaside houses with sturdy facades, set against a backdrop of rough mountains.

Lagkada

Just before the main road turns into Lagkada, there is a fine panorama over the mountain village. To enjoy it to the fullest, there is a neatly paved square with benches along the road. It’s a perfect spot for the lunch we stocked up this morning at Lidl.

Limeni

Since olden times Limeni is the port of the town of Areopoli. But strangely enough, Limeni has no real port. The few boats that are there are anchored in the bay. Neither is Limeni a seaside resort, there are no beaches. So what is the attraction? Limeni is mainly being beautiful and chic. A picture-perfect place to show off on social media. The houses are perched on the rocks right on the azure waters, with the rugged mountains in the background. Almost all of them are in use as hotels, holiday homes or restaurants.

Areopoli

This mountain village is the capital of Mani. It is a bit larger than neighbouring villages and has more facilities. Around the central square there is much liveliness. Nevertheless, we drive on, for lack of time. In the past few days we have already visited enough mountain villages in the interior of the Peloponnese.

Mezapos

Mezapos is a tiny fishing village without much entertainment. It is mainly worth a visit because of its extraordinary coastline. At Mezapos, the sheer yellow-white cliffs form a perfectly round bay with a narrow passage. The shape is reminiscent of a sinkhole and that is perhaps how it was once formed.

Gerolimenas

Gerolimenas is not a picturesque fishing village, as several websites would have you believe. It is an ugly hodgepodge. Yet Gerolimenas has undeniable charm. The charm of a place at the end of the world. A last beacon of human life, between desert-like mountains and the endless sea.

Vathia

Once Vathia was a beacon of resistance against invasions by foreign rulers. Today it is a ghost town with two faces.

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Gythio

After a tour through the sparsely populated Mani, Gythio feels like a return to civilisation. Gythio has a serious harbour, with stately and colourful buildings along the quay. Behind it, the houses are built against a gently sloping hill. It is a wonderfully lively place with many restaurants and a few hotels, perfect for an overnight stay.

We stay in Gythio for two nights, but are mainly there in the evening. We haven’t found time for exploring and photographing the town.

Dimitrios shipwreck

A stranded cargo ship is, of course, essentially a hideous pile of rubbish. One that you want to look away from, just like with the carcasses of failed construction projects. But as the object ages and reaches a more advanced state of decay, ugliness turns into a form of beauty. Such is the case with the Dimitrios shipwreck on Valtaki beach. It is heavily gnawed by rust, but the shipwreck shines beautifully in the afternoon light. It is actually a shame that it is so daubed with graffiti.

The story of how the Dimitrios came to be stranded here in late 1981 is rather prosaic. The captain became seriously ill and the ship moored in Gythio harbour so that he could be hospitalised. In the months that followed, money ran out, the crew was dismissed and the port authorities of Gythio were in a fix with the ship. For safety reasons it was anchored outside the port. There, the ship became adrift in bad weather and ended up where it is today.