Historical background
Corinth was a powerful city-state in ancient Greece, thanks to its strategic location. Where the Corinth Canal now lies, ancient Corinth had ports on both sides of the isthmus. The Corinthians provided overland transport between both ports, between the Gulf of Corinth and the Gulf of Egina. In addition, Corinth was located between the important city-states of Athens and Sparta, with which it alternately cooperated or was at war.
On the excavation site and in the museum, there is little that dates from this ancient Greek heyday. After the Battle of Corinth in 146 BC, the city was plundered and completely destroyed by the victorious Romans. A century later, Corinth was rebuilt by Julius Caesar, as a provincial capital under Roman rule. Most of the remains that can be seen today date from that Roman period.
Museum
The museum just behind the entrance gate looks inviting. As a matter of course you step inside, before exploring the excavation site. In the museum’s courtyard, you may get startled for a moment by the macabre scene. It is full of headless Roman statues, as if an iconoclasm has raged past. The stone bodies stand looking at you blankly.
Why do all these statues have no heads? Look again, more closely. Most of the statues have a deep cavity at the position of the neck. Head and body were separate parts. The Romans did that so that they only had to replace the head after a change of power or when someone fell from grace. Smart guys, those Romans. With this knowledge, the display of headless interchangeable bodies suddenly takes on a tantalising symbolism.
In one of the museum rooms a notable variety of clay body parts is exhibited. The display case includes arms, legs, breasts, genitalia and complete heads. They were found at the Asclepieion, an ancient Greek sanctuary and sanatorium just outside Ancient Corinth. The clay statues are ex-voto offerings to the Greek god Asclepius, as thanks or appeal for healing.
Another highlight in the collection are a number of floor mosaics from Roman villas. They are beautifully colourful and detailed and now hang on the wall in the museum.
Excavation site
Ancient Corinth is situated in a magnificent location. South of the archaeological excavations is the rock formation with the citadel Akrokórinthos as a grandiose backdrop. And on the north side you look out over the blue waters of the Gulf of Corinth.
Temple of Apollo
The eye-catcher on the site are the seven columns still standing from the Temple of Apollo. What is special about these columns is that they are monoliths, consisting of one solid piece of limestone. The columns stand sturdy and elegant, shining in the sun. But up close, the more than 2,500 year old colossi also look vulnerable.
Lechaion Road
Lechaion Road is the main street of Ancient Corinth. From the central square, the road ran to the port of Lechaion on the Gulf of Corinth. The pavement dates back to the 1st century AD and still gives the road an elegant grandeur. It was a real shopping street, on the western side the outline of a row of shops can still be recognized.
Spring of Pirene
There are several stories about this spring in Greek mythology. The spring is said to have originated from the tears of the lament of the nymph Pirene, after her son was killed. The spring was also linked to Pegasus and was sacred to the muses. Poets came to the well to drink from it for inspiration.
The spring of Pirene can be seen from behind a wall in a side street off Lechaion Road. What you see is a courtyard with a fountain built during the Roman period. The spring itself is hidden behind the gallery with six arches.
Akrokórinthos
A good road leads to the top of Akrokórinthos. By car you get there in no time and you can park at the foot of the castle. We only drove by for a brief impression and a great panorama. We did not go inside the fortress. The thick defensive walls date from after the Roman Empire. From the Byzantines in the Middle Ages to the Turks in the early 19th century, the place was used as a fortress. Makes sense, with such an overview of the wide surroundings.
Practical information
- The website of the Archaeological Museum of Ancient Corinth has all the practical information for a visit, such as opening hours and prices. There is also a lot of background information about the archaeological excavations and the museum’s collection.
- Directly in front of the entrance is a asphalt area for parking, but it can be full with clumsily parked tour buses. There is also parking along the streets and opposite the entrance, and otherwise there is a sizeable car park 250 metres away. Parking is free everywhere.
- For great photos with the rock formation of Akrokórinthos in the background, it is best to visit Ancient Corinth in the morning. In the afternoon, the sun is right behind Akrokórinthos.
Sources
- Historiscal background: Encyclopedia Britannica
- Headless statues: IFLScience
- Lechaion Road: American School of Classical Studies
- Spring of Pirene: Wikipedia