Evangelical youth
After putting on my hiking boots and packing my backpack, I let my gaze glide calmly along the mountain massif. Massif de la Sainte-Baume is a 12-kilometre-long stone wall, impregnable on the face of it. Yet there must be a path leading up somewhere. On top of the vertical cliff is the destination of my hike, Saint-Pilon.
Behind a cornfield begins the forest that grows on the lower slopes of Sainte-Baume. The path is wide and the stone steps on the steeper sections seem to have been there for centuries. Surrounded by the dense forest, my sense of space and time fades.
At a crossroads in the forest, a group of young people are posted. Their backpacks are on the ground and some of them are talking to passers-by. I take out my hiking map to see which of the paths leads to Saint-Pilon. One of the guys comes up to me and kindly asks if he can help. After pointing out the route to Saint-Pilon, he draws my attention to the service that starts at 11 o’clock in the nearby chapel in the rocks. He points out the path that leads to the chapel. My curiosity is aroused by this evangelical youngster. Like a docile lamb, I follow the path and staircases up to the sanctuary.
Pilgrim
Grotte de la Sainte-Baume is not just any chapel, it is a prominent place in Christian history. According to tradition, Mary Magdalene hid in this cave for years after she was expelled from the Holy Land. And whether that really happened or not, this legend has made the cave an important place of pilgrimage since the 5th century AD. Many pilgrims have visited the place over the centuries, including kings and popes. In fact, the mountain range is named after Mary Magdalene. Baume means balm, the symbol for Mary Magdalene through the Bible story in which she anoints the feet of Jesus.
Today I am a pilgrim for the occasion. It is ten past ten-thirty and the pews in the cave are still empty. In front of the cave is a little square that is miraculously stuck against the vertical rock face. Tourists like me are strolling around, clearly recognisable by their backpacks and summer casual wear. There are now also visitors coming up the steps in neat clothes, especially for the service. They enter the cave and get seated on the pews. Then a priest in robes comes out of the monastery building next to the cave. He stands in front of the statue on the square and begins a silent prayer, which turns into divine chanting. As the priest strides to the chapel inside the cave, I descend the stairways again. No, no worship service for me, I walk on to Saint-Pilon.
As the angel flies
The top of the cliff is easier to reach than I had estimated from below. Although the final section is quite steep, the hiking trail is never difficult or scary. At the top of Sainte-Baume it is breathtaking. It is a very long mountain ridge with phenomenal views. You can walk for kilometres over the ridge in either direction. I walk half a kilometre, to Chapelle du Saint-Pilon. As the crow flies it is close to the cave where I just was, but 100 metres higher up on the rocks. This is where Mary Magdalene came to pray seven times a day. Carried by angels from her cave, or so the story goes.
In search of pretty pictures I stroll over the rocks, close to the edge of the abyss. I sit down at a nice comfortable stone. I can’t think of a better place for lunch.
Back at the car, I gaze once more along the mountain massif of Sainte-Baume. At the top I now clearly recognise Chapelle du Saint-Pilon. And diagonally below I can also see the sanctuary at Grotte de la Sainte-Baume, like a birdhouse against the rock face.
Hiking map
- The starting point of the hike is on the D80, east of the town of Plan-d’Aups-Sainte-Baume. There are a hostel and a tourist office along the road, but that is not where you need to be. The car park for hikers is a little east of those buildings.
- You can also start the walk at Les Trois Chênes. That is 600 metres further on and there is also a free car park.
- The hike is well marked as a yellow route. You just have to pay attention at the crossroads in the forest, because all four turns are part of the yellow route. One path goes back and forth to Grotte de la Sainte-Baume, another back and forth to Saint-Pilon. The other two are paths back to the starting point.
Sources
For the historical background I have used the sources below. These are also a good starting point for those who want to read more about the history of Sainte-Baume.
- Grotte de la Sainte-Baume : Sanctuaire de la Sainte-Baume and Wikipedia
- Chapelle du Saint-Pilon : Wikipedia
